To celebrate Easter this weekend I made hot cross buns, the brioche-like spiced loaves traditionally eaten in Britain on Good Friday. I’ve made them before, but this time I adapted the method from baker Dan Lepard, especially his overnight cold fermentation, and converted the recipe to use my sourdough starter. The recipe below gives options for both using a starter and using commercial yeast.
I also wanted to clear out the fridge before a trip, so I replaced the butter and part of the milk with 125 grams of crème fraîche. Several French brioche recipes call for crème fraîche; here it adds a subtle tang and a softer, airier crumb. I reduced the amount of added sweetener in the dough because I planned a fairly sweet filling.
The classic hot cross bun is studded with raisins or currants, and sometimes candied citrus peel, but I had an entirely different picture in my mind: this year, I wanted to make them with white chocolate, pistachios, and dates.
Instead of the usual currants or candied peel, I filled these buns with white chocolate, pistachios, and dates. The combination of white chocolate and pistachio is inspired by small brioches I’ve seen at Eric Kayser’s bakery; diced date paste added a complementary caramel-like chew. I’m not usually fond of plain white chocolate on its own, but used here it caramelizes at the edges during baking and gives little nuggets of sweet, lightly toasted flavor throughout the bun.
On a previous attempt I struggled with the cross that gives the buns their name. Some bakers use icing or marzipan, but I prefer a toaster-proof cross made from a flour-and-water paste. This time I thinned the paste to a smooth, spreadable consistency and piped it with a paper cornet. The crosses adhered to the buns and remained decorative without making the tops hard.
After baking I brushed the buns with a simple sugar glaze, which adds shine, a sticky finish, and a touch of sweetness. We ate one fresh from the oven and loved it. Traditionally hot cross buns are split, toasted, and spread with butter or jam; these are sweet enough that jam felt unnecessary to me, and I even skipped the butter, but try them however you prefer.
Although hot cross buns are most often associated with Easter, historical restrictions on when they could be sold are long repealed, so enjoy this recipe any time of year. You can also adapt the cross into another decoration for other occasions.
* For background on the history of hot cross buns, see the Food Timeline collection of excerpts.
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Prep Time: 25 minutes
Cook Time: 35 minutes
Total Time: 12 hours
Makes 12 hot cross buns, about 85 grams (3 ounces) each.
Ingredients
- 120 grams (4 1/4 ounces) ripe 100% starter (optional; see notes)
- 340 grams (12 ounces) all-purpose flour (use 400 g if not using a starter)
- 1/2 teaspoon dry yeast (use 2 teaspoons if not using a starter)
- 175 ml (3/4 cup) milk, at room temperature (use 225 ml if not using a starter), plus a little for brushing
- 125 grams (1/2 cup) crème fraîche (or equal parts sour cream and heavy cream)
- 50 grams (6 tablespoons) raw pistachios, roughly chopped
- 100 grams (3 1/2 ounces) good-quality white chocolate, chopped to chip size
- 100 grams (3 1/2 ounces) date paste or pitted dates, diced to chip size
- 1 tablespoon agave syrup (or honey, golden syrup, or maple syrup)
- 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
- zest of 1/2 organic lemon or orange, finely grated
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 2 tablespoons water
- 50 grams (1/4 cup) sugar
- 50 ml (3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon) water
Instructions
- In a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer combine the flour, starter (if using), yeast, milk, and crème fraîche to form a shaggy mass. Make sure all flour is incorporated and let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
- Meanwhile, place the pistachios, white chocolate, date paste, syrup, salt, citrus zest, and cinnamon in a medium bowl and stir to combine.
- Add the pistachio mixture to the dough and fold in with a sturdy spatula or the mixer’s dough hook until incorporated. Continue folding or mixing on low for about 4 minutes until the dough becomes smoother.
- Press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the dough’s surface, cover the bowl with a plate, and refrigerate for 12 to 18 hours.
- Remove the dough from the fridge, discard the plate, and let the dough rest for 30 minutes; it should have risen moderately. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat.
- Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. The dough will be sticky; working while cold helps. Divide into 12 equal pieces (about 90 grams each), aiming to distribute the fillings evenly.
- Shape each piece into a squarish bun and place them on the prepared baking sheet, leaving about 2.5 cm (1 inch) between them so they will touch as they rise and bake.
- Cover with a clean towel draped as a tent to avoid sticking, and let rest for 2 1/2 hours until risen to about 1.5 times their original size.
- Preheat the oven to 180°C (360°F).
- Brush the buns lightly with milk to encourage browning.
- Make the flour paste for the crosses by whisking 2 tablespoons flour with 2 tablespoons water until smooth. The consistency should be spreadable but not too thick. Spoon into a paper cone (cornet), snip the tip to a small opening, and pipe a cross on each bun.
- Bake on the middle rack for 35 to 40 minutes until golden. Transfer to a cooling rack.
- While the buns bake, make the glaze: combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan, bring to a boil, and simmer for 2 minutes until slightly thickened. Brush the warm buns with the glaze; they will be sticky on the day of baking and less so afterward.
- Once cooled, split the buns horizontally and toast if desired.
Notes
- A “100%” starter is fed equal weights of flour and water at each feeding. For more on sourdough starters see my post on natural starter bread.
- The hot cross buns keep for a few days at room temperature when tightly wrapped, and they can also be frozen.
Hot Cross Buns with White Chocolate, Dates and Pistachios Recipe